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 Serengeti
National Park is considered the most important wildlife sanctuary remaining
on earth. Over 3 million large animals, some of which are found nowhere else,
coexist in the Serengeti, making it peerless in quantity and variety of life. As
its woodlands harboured tsetse flies which bring disease to livestock (wild
animals are naturally immune), the Serengeti was spared encroachment by
Europeans and the attendant wildlife decimation. The Serengeti National Park is
now surrounded by buffer zones where human activity is phased down to blend with
conservation objectives. Conflicts continue with the impoverished villages
around the Serengeti as the villagers perceive that the needs of animals and
tourists are given priority over their own needs. About 40,000 animals a year
are killed illegally by locals. The Serengeti authorities realize that
successful conservation efforts ultimately require the long-term support of the
locals.
  It's forbidden
to drive in the Serengeti Park after sunset. But if you fall ill in the middle
of the park, you can get permission to delay your return and wind up driving
back at night. That's how we were able to experience a rare night safari and
take these pictures of a spotted hyena and cub. I must admit that I used
to have no respect for hyenas until I read that, despite their canine
appearance, they are more closely related to cats than dogs.
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Hyena
hyeding
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Hyenas are the most common large
carnivores in the Serengeti and the only ones that challenge lions. Efficient and cooperative hunters, hyena prey
mainly on hoofed mammals. They also steal kills from other predators and eat
carrion, bones and trash, all of which contributes to their bad public image.
Hyena clans are centered around females, which are dominant to and larger than
the males. Serengeti hyenas combine a residential life in a defended clan
territory with long trips to forage on migratory herds. This commuting lifestyle
allows them to prosper in large, stable clans in areas where game is not
abundant year-round.
 Nevertheless, hyenas do look silly sitting with their rears in the
mud. This muddy-bummed individual was watching the most disturbing thing we saw
on safari...
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This hapless zebra
is half a
zebra
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If hyenas don't deserve their reputation
as loathsome scavengers, vultures certainly seem to. When we arrived this
hapless zebra was half a zebra. Athumani said it probably died from natural
causes earlier in the day. The squawking, squabbling, grunting vultures started
at the anus and worked forward from the inside - vulture beaks cannot penetrate
the thick zebra hide. There was constant turn-over as new vultures swooped in
and the group fought amongst themselves for good spots.
We were left with a vivid image of what it means to call someone,
say a lawyer, a "vulture". But, in fairness to the vultures, they are an
essential part of the ecosystem, efficiently consuming the remains of dead
animals. The fact that they're often seen covered in blood and gore while
feeding doesn't help their image. But they don't stay dirty for long: they bathe
every day.
 Ostrich, now there's a big bird (the world's largest) that
everyone can appreciate. Ostriches have been hunted to extinction in Asia and
now are only found in central Africa. The conspicuous black and white plumage
indicates this is a male. Ostriches can run very quickly for a considerable time
and swerve sharply to avoid predators. They have the largest eyes of any land
animal. In order to escape detection, they sometimes lie on the ground with
their necks outstretched which surely gave rise to the myth that ostriches bury
their heads.
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