Saturday, May 19, 2012

Greatest Wildlife Migration.

 Dreams may come true one day to see this wonderful Adventure in the World.

The Wildebeest Migration” has to be one of the greatest wildlife spectacles in the world and it has been a dream of mine to go riding amongst the migration for many years. This little adventure came true in September when a group of us partook in an amazing safari with Tristan Voorspy from Offbeat Safaris. Our little group hailed from UK, Ireland, America and Zambia and Zimbabwe. For many it was a first time trip to Africa, and many didn’t know each other previously but we all had one thing in common - the love of riding and horses and all ready to share an adventure and witness this incredible show somewhat differently.

Wildebeest Migrationin the Mara



After meeting up in Nairobi we chartered down to the Masai land adjacent to the Masai Mara Game reserve, flying over the volcano studded floor of the Great Rift Valley, numerous Masai Villages were seen and herds of game looked like ants . Here we met Tristan Voorspy, a great character ,and our host and guide for the next 10 days. He was joined by Simon Kenyon, Tristan’s able young assistant, who is born in Kenya and comes from a cattle ranching family, was tasked, poor chap, to wait on us hand and foot and which he did with great enthusiasm. Tristan, an English army officer began guiding horseback safaris in the Masai Mara 18 years ago. Tristan although very modest about his acheivements, taught famous people like Meryl Streep and Michael Kitchen to ride for the film "Out of Africa". Has also taken other film stars and celebraties like Glen Close out on safari.
Camping in the mara
Our tented camp for the first night was in a grove of acacia trees by a small stream at the Southern edge of the Loita Plains at Olare Lamun (the rhino salt lick). Tristan had wisely selected our appropriate horses for a group of anxious and eager riders. Our first afternoon and the following day was a chance to get use to our able, athletic steeds, whom we all formed a close bond with by the end of the trip. Wildlife was everywhere and from where we rode we could see scattered herds of impala, zebra, giraffe, wildebeest, topi, thompson’s gazelle. In the distance we could see thousands and thousands of wildebeest cover the grassland all the way to the distant horizon. Our first evening whilst sitting around a camp fire, 2 lioness’s came into camp to attack the horses but the Masai guard was quick on the alert and shouted at them until they slunk off into the bush. On another evening, whilst out on a night drive, we came across 11 lions and we watched as 2 lioness unsuccessful try to stalk a wildebeest. During our stay here we were taken on walks; game drives and visited a traditional Masai Village . It was amazing to see how these people have lived with their livestock for hundreds of years in harmony with the wildlife.
Riding in the maraMasai Village


At first light we were woken to a friendly greeting of “Jambo” as hot water was poured into our outside basins. Eagerly everyone got up and ready to mount their same horses and set off for a new day’s adventure. After a few days in each camp, the mobile camp was packed up expertly by Tristan’s efficient staff and we would ride some 50 – 70 km to the next camp. A good 7 hours of a riding to Olare Orok camp – our second camp. We rode across rolling open plains and game generally become more plentiful. Still we rode through millions of wildebeest which were grazing the plains. We soon learnt that when Tristan calmly said “Lets start with a trot and then break into a controlled canter” – usually meant a flat out gallop over the short grasslands, everyone terrified of holes but we were amazed how surefooted the horses were and that they usually spotted the holes well before we did. But the excitement and share exhilaration of galloping amongst thousands of wildebeest, zebra or towards a herd of Masai giraffe, is a feeling one can never describe. Before reaching our second camp we were charged by a huge bull elephant which caused chaos and pandemonium amongst the riders not knowing in which direction to gallop. Tristan, however, calmly aware it was just a mock charge stood his ground.
Before the storm
The evenings we would sit down to an incredible 3 course dinner, expertly cooked in a bush kitchen. The wine would flow and Tristan would entertain us with his amazing stories and jokes and his tireless enthusiasm for the horses, bush and its surrounds was infectious. Still on our adrenaline high from our day’s experiences we would all go out for an evening game drive to look for the nocturnal species. Hyena, leopard and even cheetah were seen. To add to our excitement one evening six lioness decided to grace us with their presence as they were stalking the horses on the pony lines. Although they were chased off, I found it difficult to sleep to think the horse I had become attached to might be the lions dinner.
Drinking from the mara rivercheetah in the Mara
Moving West we headed across the Mara plains and reached the Mara river on the park boundary. An amazing day galloping amongst millions of wildebeest and in the Mara Triangle the game viewing was incredible. In one particular spot from horse back we saw herds of elephant, buffalo, wildebeest, Zebra and giraffe. We then climbed along a rocky cattle track up the escarpment. Here our camp was overnight at Soit Olololo. This camp had to had one of the most amazing views and the area around was used in the film “Out of Africa”.
Treking up the escarpment
After two nights at this camp, our group headed down the escarpment for our next camp. Tristan had told us we were to swim our horses through the Mara River – but many of us didn’t really believe he was going to make us do this. A few days prior Tristan, Simon and Arnie had tried to swim the river further upstream and the current was too strong and the river level too high and it nearly washed them away. So when we saw some huge crocodiles not more than 200 meters from where Tristan told us we were to cross we thought he was joking. But when we realised he wasn't, there was nearly a revolt amongst our troops who were not at all eager to do this, all of us having visions that we we would be the crocodiles next meal. But Tristan’s persuasive manner eventually had all of us crossing and gaily telling us he has “never lost a client to date”!! I have to say that my heart was pumping as I was trying to give the pod of hippo not more than 20 meters from us a wide berth, our crossing was uneventful but exhilarating as our horses waded up to their withers through the river. We were now on a complete high and all ready to do it again. Our final camp was on the banks of the Mara River and all night long we had the grunting from the many hippos who reside near the campsite.
Swimming the mara river

Leaving camp after breakfast we drove all day to Deloraine, the drive taking us through Kericho where there are many tea estates and we ended up at Deloraine. The home of Tristan and Cindy. A beautiful Colonial Manor originally built by Lord Francis Scott. Here we had time to relax, lie by the pool, have a go at playing polo or jump a cross country course.

Our last day back to Nairobi we were taken through Lake Nakuru National Park and had a chance to see the amazing sight of millions of pink flamingos, or a chance to see both black and white rhino. Sadly our amazing safari had come to an end.

Tristan and Cindy run an excellent and professional operation. However, this safari is not for the faint hearted and you must be able to ride well, but for anyone who wants a bit of an adventure, adrenaline seeking and wants to see some of the best game viewing Africa can offer, then I definitely recommend it and I shall definitely do the trip again.

For those who don’t wish to do a safari on horse back Offbeat Safaris has a luxury camp called Offbeat Mara and they own a 24,000 acre ranch which makes up part of the Laikipai Conservancy. Here you stay in a luxury lodge can go on horse rides, walks, camel rides and see a variety of wildlife. Tristan and Cindy also run agricultural tours in Kenya combining visits to farms and staying at various safari lodges and camps



Deloraine

Flamingos at Lake Nakuru

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